The site of Capena’s weekly market has changed in the last year. It now takes up half of what used to be the main football pitch before the spiffy new stadium was opened on Via Provinciale. The stalls have not changed much, though, and still offer a mix of cut-price household items and clothes, often from Chinese stall-holders. In fact the Chinese traders have done so well, they have opened a couple of permanent shops selling a bewildering mix of cut-price items including some real bargains.
There are also plenty of stalls selling things like olives, pulses, cheese and cold cuts plus that unmissable Roman delicacy, porchetta, or roast suckling pig, served in huge bread rolls. There’s no tidy way to eat it, but it is delicious.
Fruit, vegetables and olive oil are also in plentiful supply, with some smaller stalls selling only their own produce, picked fresh that day.